For centuries, virtually all dyes originated from plants with the exception of a few from shellfish and insects. In general, coloring fabrics involves two processes: mordanting and dyeing. The term mordant refers to any substance applied for the purpose of fixing the color. For a dye to remain colorfast, a chemical and physical affinity must exist between the fiber and the dyestuff. The mordant forms the chemical "bridge" between the coloring agent and the fabric.

The substances most frequently used as mordants today are metallic salts of alum, chrome, iron, and tin, and are available in drug, chemical, or dye supply stores. Early mordants included salt, vinegar, soda, cream of tartar, and lye. Each mordant imparts a varying shade to the same fiber/dye combination. Using herbs to prepare fabric dyes no longer is done on a commercial scale, but makes an interesting hobby for the venturesome individual.

Achillea millefolium-- Yarrow (perennial)

Special Considerations: Yarrow spreads vegetatively through its roots and can be invasive if its growth is not kept in check.

Historical Use: See "Medicinal Uses of Plants"

Dye Use: The flowers of yarrow yield a yellow color in wool mordanted with alum. Using the whole plant, olive can be obtained in iron-mordanted wool.

Other Uses: See "Medicinal Uses of Plants"

Anthemis tinctoria-- Golden Marguerite (perennial)

Special Considerations: The stems of golden marguerite are rather weak and tend to flop unless staked or cut back in mid-season.

Dye Use: The flowers impart a yellow color with an alum mordant and gold with a chrome mordant.

Baptisia-- False Indigo (perennial)

Historical Use: Cherokee people drank a baptisia tea to sooth toothaches.

Dye Use: This plant creates a blue hue.

Dye Use: Calendula flowers make a yellow dye for wool mordanted with alum. It also piments butter, custards, and liquors.

Other uses: Medicinal; Culinary; Household-- decorative, cosmetic.

Special Considerations: Chicory's long taproot requires a deep soil to develop.

Historical Use: Chicory was cultivated in Egypt 5000 years ago and is mentioned in the oldest complete herbal written by the Greek physician Dioscorides. In the US, it served as cattle and sheep fodder and was added to salads and medications. Chicory is well known as a coffee substitute, coming into use after a coffee tax led people to seek other products to take its place. A scandal in the 19th century incited by dealers labeling chicory products as coffee led to legislation requiring the disclosure of product ingredients on the packaging.

Dye Use: Chicory can be used to furnish orange or blue colors in wool.

Other Uses: Medicinal; Culinary.

Crocus sativus-- Saffron (bulb)

Special Considerations: Saffron needs a protective mulch in the winter.

Historical Use: The Greeks and Romans made a royal dye color with saffron and wealthy Romans perfumed their baths and homes with it. In the 14th-18th centuries, saffron was used as a medicine and spice in Europe.

Dye Use: Dyeing is the oldest use of saffron. The yellow stigmata impart a deep yellow to fabrics. About 4000 blooms are required to produce one ounce of dye, so saffron has always been associated with wealth.

Other Uses: Medicinal; Culinary.

Isatis tinctoria-- Woad (biennial)

Historical Use: Woad was the principle blue dye in Europe until indigo was imported from the Far East. It was a healing herb of the ancient Greeks and Romans and was used as a skin colorant in battles and religious ceremonies in Britain. World War II ended its commercial cultivation.

Dye Use: Woad leaves traditionally dye yarns blue, but pink shades can be obtained from the young leaves with an alum mordant. Mature leaves create blue-black shades, and weak solutions yield a green color.

Other Uses: Medicinal.

Potentilla verna f. nana-- Potentilla (perennial)

Historical Use: The genus name Potentilla derives from the Latin "potens" or "powerful" and alludes to the plant's reputed power to cure various ailments.

Dye Use: The crushed root will dye leather red, and color wool red-brown when mordanted with chrome or purple-red when mordanted with iron.

Other Uses: Medicinal.

Salvia officinalis-- Sage (perennial sub-shrub)

Special Considerations: Cut back sage plants every three years.

Historical Use: Sage was associated with immortality and longevity and was believed to increase mental capacity. American Indians used a sage salve for sores and colonists used it to cure epilepsy, insomnia, measles, seasickness, and worms.

Dye Use: The tops of the plant will color wool a yellow-buff with an alum mordant' yellow with a chrome mordant' and green-gray with an iron mordant.

Other Uses: Medicinal; Culinary; Fragrance; Household-- insect repellent, food preservative, decorative.

Historical Use: American Indians dyed their bodies and clothing with the red sap of the root and treated sore throats, fevers, and rheumatism with the root.

Dye Use: Bloodroot will impart an orange color to wool and silk when used without a mordant, a rust color with an alum or cream of tartar mordant, and a reddish pink shade with a tin mordant.

Other Uses: Medicinal.

Solidago odora-- Sweet Goldenrod (perennial)

Historical Use: Sweet goldenrod has long been associated with wound healing and masked the unpleasant flavors of other medicines. In British folklore, plants indicated hidden treasure and marked hidden springs.

Dye Use: The flowering heads create varying shades of yellow, depending on the mordant used.

Other Uses: Medicinal; Household-- decorative.

Carthamus tinctorius-- Safflower (perennial)

Historical Use: Safflower's importance originally resulted from its dye applications. For centuries, it was added to talcum powder to create a dry rouge and to color silks. In fact, ancient mummy wrappings unearthed proved to be dyed with safflower. In the 1700's, the Portuguese utilized safflower as a saffron substitute in cooking as well as to color liqueurs. Today, safflower's value primarily rests in its seed, which produces an oil high in polyunsaturated fats, credited with lowering blood cholesterol levels.

Dye Use: The flowers render either a red or yellow dye.

Other Uses: Medicinal (limited); Household-- oil used for burning; Culinary.

Allium cepa-- Onion (annual)

Historical Use: Onions' historical importance is obvious in that they are depicted in Egyptian tomb paintings more often than any other plant. Onions' medicinal and health promoting qualities were exploited over the ages. Alexander the Great fed onions to his troops to give them strength in battle.

Dye Use: Onion skin dyes are well-known and provide a broad range of colors. Depending on the mordant used, yellow-skinned onions will yield burnt and bright orange, yellow, brass, and brown colors, while red-skinned onions will yield reddish-orange, gold, tan-brown, and dark tan dyes.

Other Uses: Medicinal; Culinary; Household--companion planting.

Stachys officinalis-- Betony (perennial)

Special Considerations: Divide and replant betony every 3-4 years if its appearance starts to deteriorate.

Historical Use: The Egyptians regarded betony as a magical herb, while the Romans listed it as a treatment for 47 illnesses. Wild animals were even said to value the plant as a medicine and seek it out if wounded. People of the Middle Ages wore betony amulets and planted it in graveyards to repel evil spirits.

Dye Use: All parts of betony can be used to create chartreuse colors in wool mordanted with alum.

Other Uses: Medicinal; Culinary.

Helianthus annuus-- Sunflower (annual)

Historical Use: American Indians cultivated sunflowers over 3000 years ago. Aztec sun priestesses were crowned with sunflowers and wore gold jewelry bearing sunflower motifs. The inner pulp of the stalk made both fast-burning candles (if broken into pieces and strung on a string) and chewing gum. Large scale cultivation first started in Russia.

Dye Use: A wide array of colors, including gray, green, orange, tan, and yellow, result from combining different plant parts with various mordants.

Other Uses: Culinary; Medicinal.

Alchemilla vulgaris-- Lady's Mantle (perennial)

Special Considerations: Divide lady's mantle occasionally to control its spread.

Historical Use: Alchemical virtues were attributed to the dew drops that collected in the plaits and cups of the leaves of lady's mantle. In medieval times, it was considered a panacea for almost every kind of illness. The tannin compounds found in the plant give it astringent qualities, justifying its historic use to stop bleeding and vomiting, and heal wounds.

Dye Use: The above-ground parts of lady's mantle generate yellow colors in wool.

Other Uses: Medicinal.

Special Considerations: See "Medicinal Uses of Plants".

Historical Use: See "Medicinal Uses of Plants".

Dye Use: The flowers of foxglove produce a chartreuse color in fabrics.

Other Uses: See "Medicinal Uses of Plants".

Special Considerations: Hollyhock requires staking.

Historical Use: Hollyhock first reached Europe in the 16th century, after which it was employed both as a medicinal and a culinary herb. It is among the oldest cultivated plants.

Dye Use: The flowers are useful in coloring wine and provide the coloring matter for the indicator in volumetric analysis.

Historical Use: An effective wound ointment was made by pounding alkanet roots with olive oil and earthworms. Ancient Egyptians created a face paint using the red dye obtained from alkanet roots.

Dye Use: The alkanet root produces a blood-red dye suitable for staining cloth, wood, and stone, or for coloring liquids and ointments. When mordanted with alum, a gray-green color is obtained.

Other Use: Medicinal.